On the night of Sunday, 15th June, we stepped out of Tejpal Auditorium at Gowalia Tank after watching a delightful play, Dashera. It was nearing half-past ten. We were hungry and were dying to eat something fantastic. But a glance at the clock made me sad, “Oh no! Swati Snacks must be closed… now we will have to eat elsewhere.”
So, we took a taxi to Sardar Pav Bhaji. En route, we passed Swati Snacks opposite Bhatia Hospital. It was shrouded in complete darkness. My simple presumption was that the restaurant had closed bang on time as usual, adhering to its disciplined hours. Little did I know then that Asha Zaveri, the visionary behind Swati Snacks and affectionately known as Ashaben, had passed away the previous day…
The news came on Monday. A profound sense of emptiness settled in my heart. Ashaben had created a culinary gem on Mumbai’s map with her remarkable restaurant. Though I had no personal acquaintance with her, what did that matter? Every time I dined at her restaurant, it felt as though Ashaben herself was serving her customers with warmth and care. Few restaurants, despite their high features, evoke such a sense of intimacy. I have always felt it here, and perhaps so did everyone else.
I recall an incident from about three years ago.
That evening, I was in Ahmedabad. Swati Snacks now has a branch there too, at Law Garden. After dining, my eyes fell on a stand displaying a book with a yellow jacket about Swati Snacks. I picked it up and discovered it was written by Ashaben in collaboration with Tanushka Vaid. At the time, only the English edition was published, but it’s now available in Gujarati and Hindi as well. I bought the book immediately and devoured it in a couple of sittings. Like the dishes at Swati Snacks, the book was rich and brimming with the flavours of Ashaben’s life experiences. It chronicled her journey and the remarkable rise of Swati Snacks, from a modest stall to one of the finest restaurants not just in Mumbai but across the country, captured beautifully in words.
After finishing the book, I couldn’t contain myself. I emailed the publisher, Yogi Impressions, expressing my desire to translate it. The next day, I received a reply: “Thank you for your email. We are almost ready with Gujarati translation and we will soon publish it. However, we thank you for showing interest in doing the Gujarati translation of Swati Snacks.” True enough, the Gujarati version was released soon after.
Ashaben’s life was proof of what an individual can achieve if they set their mind to it—or rather, what they cannot achieve!
I write this in her memory because it is rare for a restaurant creator (I refrain from calling her an owner, as Swati Snacks is truly a creation) to forge such an effortless, enduring bond of warmth with unfamiliar customers through their dishes and the restaurant’s ambience. Even if such intimacy is achieved, it seldom endures for years. I have enjoyed many moments of delight at other favourite restaurants, but the quiet, unique warmth I experienced at Swati Snacks is unparalleled. This, despite never knowing the owner personally or forming a rapport with any waiter or manager, no matter how many times I dined there.
I remember years ago when Saurabh Shah introduced me to Swati Snacks. It was one of two restaurants I first visited with him where I savoured something truly delightful. On my first visit, I relished their panki. To this day, panki remains my first order at Swati Snacks. “One panki, please, while I decide on the rest…” has become my almost ritualistic refrain there. For years, it’s been a rule: if I am going to town, have meetings around Charni Road or Grant Road, and lunchtime arrives, I dine at Swati Snacks whenever possible—no second thoughts. Similarly, since Swati Snacks opened in Ahmedabad, it’s become a tradition to visit the Law Garden branch at least once during every trip to the city and enjoy a meal there.
Years ago, I was surprised to see sugarcane juice on their menu. In Mumbai, you could (and still can) get a large glass of sugarcane juice for a mere Rs. 10 or Rs. 15 in every neighbourhood. Yet, at Swati Snacks, people happily paid Rs. 200 for it. However, every dish at Swati Snacks commands a premium price, and sugarcane juice is no exception. Still, why people don’t bother to look at the right side of the menu and place orders for their favourite dishes while focusing on the right side of the menu? The answer lies in the restaurant’s unique qualities: a limited yet exceptional menu, a simple yet captivating ambience, impeccable cleanliness, and an extraordinary consistency in taste and service. Many restaurants may excel in some of these aspects, but few can rival Swati Snacks.
Through Swati Snacks, Ashaben indulged us with unparalleled culinary tempered tastes. Her passing has left a void in our hearts. Yet, each visit to Swati Snacks will bring her to mind. And with that memory will come the hope that her legacy will carry on at every Swati Snacks outlet. From high above, Ashaben will surely be watching, ensuring it does…
Ashaben, thank you for gifting us this extraordinary treasure!
