Saturday, January 18

Devotees are flocking to the Prayagraj Maha Kumbh Mela!

The number of visitors is hitting the roof—no, actually, the sky—and yet, it’s just the beginning! From an initial estimate of around 15 crore or 150 million devotees visiting the greatest religious congregation on earth to renewed and constantly updated estimates of 40 crores or 400 million visitors eventually attending the Maha Kumbh Mela, the going on is just unbelievable. 

This also means that none of the Maha Kumbh Mela days will have less than one crore devotees at the Sangam or in the Prayagraj city. Consider at least half of them staying there for a day, and the daily turnout of devotees reaches, what, 1.5 crore or 15 million! 

Prayagraj is a little more than half Mumbai’s size, or say, 365 square kilometers in all. On the other hand, the area earmarked for a temporary city erected for the Maha Kumbh Mela is 4,000 hectares. This city has 1,50,000 tents, 3,000 kitchens, and other facilities. 

Visiting the Maha Kumbh Mela is not a mean feat, one must say. Besides religious belief, it is also a testament to one’s mental and physical strength too.

Deshwale’s Aazeem Khaan recently spoke to Amit Daga, a devotee who has just returned from Prayagraj after visiting the Maha Kumbh Mela with his mother, wife, and younger daughter. Here is what Amit experienced in the Maha Kumbh Mela, in first person. Excerpts of the conversation: 

Amit Daga

“I was in Prayagraj between 12th January and 14th January. Attending the Maha Kumbh Mela was truly a divine blessing! While the Kumbh Mela takes place every 12 years, once 12 kumbh is finished, this rare event occurs only once every 144 years. Experiencing this sacred occasion felt even more special, as it is something that only the 4th generation of a family might witness again. I feel immensely blessed to have been part of this extraordinary spiritual gathering and am grateful to share my first-hand experience with you all through Deshwale.

My Planning and Wishing

My planning focused on ensuring a safe and comfortable journey, especially considering my mother’s age and her limited mobility, along with my younger daughter’s needs. Since I was traveling from Abu Dhabi, I extended my pilgrimage beyond the Maha Kumbh to include Varanasi, Prayagraj, and Ayodhya for a complete spiritual experience.

All three destinations are well connected, with direct and connecting flights available. Considering ticket prices and convenience, I planned a three-way travel route. These cities are about 3–4 hours apart by road, though diversions and traffic often add time.

I chose Varanasi as my entry point due to a direct flight from Sharjah with cheaper fares. Upon arrival, I completed three major darshans and attended the mesmerising Ganga Aarti on the same night. Early the next morning, I traveled to Prayagraj via Vindhyachal Devi Temple, one of the most powerful Shakti Peeths en route.

I stayed two days in Prayagraj and completed the 14th January Snan (bathing ritual) before leaving for Ayodhya at 10 a.m. On Shahi Snan day, road diversions forced me to travel an extra 80 km. Even in Ayodhya, roads near the temple were closed due to heavy crowds. Despite starting early, I reached Ayodhya by 6 p.m.

My Travel

We traveled to Prayagraj by car from Varanasi, stopping at Vindhyachal Devi Temple for darshan. The car rental cost INR 3,000.

For similar trips, I recommend the “Taxi Sanchalak” app for car bookings. Register in advance and compare prices to save around INR 500, as brokers often book through this app.

My Stay and Safety Tips in Ayodhya

In Ayodhya, beware of cyber crimes, especially with paying guests and dharamshalas near the temple. Fake listings are common. I suggest staying close to the temple to avoid excessive walking in crowded areas. Fortunately, decent homestays are available for INR 1,000–1,500. On 15th January, I dedicated the entire day to Ayodhya and returned on a night flight.

Note: Around 40% of Maha Kumbh visitors also plan to visit Ayodhya, creating a massive rush.

My Stay and Snan

Our journey from Varanasi to Prayagraj took about 4.5 hours, including a brief halt at Vindhyachal Devi Temple. Upon reaching Prayagraj, I learned the Sangam area has two sides:

1. Prayagraj Side:

  • Most crowded, attracting around 70% of visitors.
  • Home to Naga Sadhus, Akhadas, and vibrant Kumbh events.
  • Ideal for the full spiritual experience but involves dense crowds and walking.

2. Arail Side:

  • Known for Tent City, VIP accommodations, and areas for foreign visitors.
  • Calmer with minimal crowds and fewer sadhus.

I stayed on the Arail side at the KK Vista Hotel, 500 meters from Tent City. It was peaceful and perfect for a family-friendly experience. The owner, Mr. Akhilesh. He was incredibly helpful, even personally assisting us during Shahi Snan.

My Snan (Holy Dip)

I completed my Snan (holy dip) on both days (13th and 14th January) comfortably within 1-2 hours. I was fortunate to find a reliable boatman who kept me updated about the crowd situation and guided me directly to a VIP platform at the Sangam.

The VIP platform was well organized with:

  • Proper stairs leading into the water.
  • A changing room for privacy.
  • A priest is available for puja services.
  • I paid INR 25 for access to the platform (originally quoted INR 40 but negotiated).
  • Boat charges vary between INR 100-200, depending on your negotiation skills.

Important Travel Tip

Bikes are allowed near the ghats most of the time, but four-wheelers are generally restricted due to crowd control. If you can arrange a bike drop-off, it will save a lot of time and walking. Most bikes can accommodate two passengers, making them ideal for family travel near the ghats. Unfortunately, due to extreme crowding and road closures, I couldn’t visit the Prayagraj side during my visit.

My Interaction with Devotees

Meeting devotees from all over India was heartwarming. The Maha Kumbh Mela unites people beyond regions and backgrounds, bound by shared faith. Interacting with sadhus and akhara heads provided unique insights into their lives.

My Feelings About the Naga Sadhus

At first, I felt a bit intimidated by the Naga Sadhus with their ash-covered bodies, matted hair, and minimal clothing. Though they spoke very little, their calm demeanor and powerful rituals, especially during the Shahi Snan, left a lasting impression of deep devotion and discipline.

My Observations

The sheer scale of the Maha Kumbh Mela is beyond words. The collective faith and devotion of millions gathered in one place created an energy unlike anything I have ever experienced. The administration did a commendable job managing such a vast crowd, though occasional bottlenecks were inevitable

My Tips

Beware of scamsters, especially online: Avoid online payment scams for accommodations. Verify sources before booking.

Avoid Shahi Snan Day for a Peaceful Dip: If you want a calm, crowd-free experience, avoid the Shahi Snan day.

Sangam is Mid-River: The Triveni Sangam is in the middle of the river, not at the ghat, so a boat ride is necessary for the dip.

Budget Stays Available: No need for expensive hotels. Decent stays are available under 5,000 INR, or opt for an ashram stay with a voluntary donation for a more spiritual experience.

Use a Bike for Travel: Bikes can access restricted areas better than cars, saving time and effort.

Stay Side Matters: If you have limited time or mobility issues, stay on the Arail side for easier access. For the full Maha Kumbh experience, choose the Prayagraj side.

Distance Awareness on Shahi Snan: On Shahi Snan days, reaching the Triveni Sangam by boat may not be possible. Be ready to walk from the nearest accessible ghat, so check the actual distance from your stay.

Mr. Amit came across a thought-provoking picture in Tent City that conveyed a deep message: “सबको अपने कर्मों का पता होता है, यूँ ही गंगा पर इतनी भीड़ नहीं होती।”

All of you should visit the Maha Kumbh!

There are no major issues—it’s a smooth and well-organised experience. Media, WhatsApp, and Instagram often exaggerate for views. Just avoid Shahi Snan day and +/- 1 day for a more peaceful visit.

Speaking with Amit Daga and sharing his exclusive experience offered a unique perspective on the Maha Kumbh Mela, a spiritual journey that combines faith, endurance, and meticulous planning. His insights serve as a guide for anyone aspiring to witness this once-in-a-lifetime event, navigating the immense scale and sacred essence with ease.

The Maha Kumbh Mela is more than a religious congregation; it’s a celebration of humanity’s unyielding devotion and unity. As millions converge at the Triveni Sangam, they carry with them hopes, prayers, and the timeless spirit of togetherness.

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